The Camino de San Salvador runs from León through the mountains to Oviedo and is a 120km pilgrimage in its own right with its own ‘Compostela’ (called the Salvadorana). The purpose of the pilgrimage is to visit the Sudarium, the head cloth wrapped around Jesus’ head when he was placed in the tomb (See the Gospel of John chapter 20 vs 6-7). 

Although any of the usual pilgrim credencials can be used on the San Salvador there is a special San Salvador credencial available from the cathedral in León and the Albergue del Convento de las Carbajalas in León. The Salvadorana is available at the cathedral in Oviedo for pilgrims who have walked the San Salvador.

Traditionally, many pilgrims would arrive in León and then turn north to Oviedo to visit the Sudarium before continuing on the Primitivo to Santiago. As one French pilgrim wrote “He who visits Santiago and not Oviedo visits the servant and not the master”.

The route: The route is some 120 km long, and starts from León following the east bank of the Rio Benesga. For the first 40 km as far as Buiza, the Camino follows the river valley, and is fairly flat, mainly on paths or very minor roads. There are a number of small towns. The next 25 km cross the Cordillera to Pajares village in Asturias, and has two quite substantial ascents and descents. 

The mountainous terrain not only means that the weather is often poor, but that the pilgrim services are scant and careful planning of where to stay and find food is important. There is, for example, a 50km stretch with no shops.

There is an unofficial, unsigned ‘winter’ route which can be used as an escape route from the mountains in bad weather and is described in the CSJ’s guide book.

Waymarking: Waymarking is generally very good. However, in the mountains, particularly in bad weather, it is important to ensure that you find and follow the signs.

Weather/When to go: The weather in the province of León is very hot in July and August, and generally similar to that on the Camino Francés. The weather for the crossing of the Cordillera mountain range is highly variable, and you need to be prepared with suitable clothing and equipment for sudden changes of weather, which may include thick fog, heavy rain and severe cold. In particular, the weather on the Asturias side of the Cordillera can be very different from the weather on the way up in León. Take local advice on conditions and let people know when and where you are walking so that the alarm can be raised if you don’t arrive when expected.

Accommodation: There is sufficient accommodation with albergues and other suitable accommodation. However, it is strongly recommended to phone ahead to book any non-albergue accommodation. In several places, if you want to buy a meal, you must phone ahead to ensure that food can be bought in for you. 

Guide books:

• Our Camino Pilgrim guide to the route offers comprehensive information and can be purchased here. 
• Information and links are also available from the Léon amigos association. 

Language. It is helpful to speak a little Spanish, particularly if you need to ask for directions in the section crossing the Cordillera.

Thanks to Tom Barton for the photos on this page.